Dzukou Valley.
Nagaland,the Land of Festivals, is inhabited by 17 major tribes. The 16th state to join the Dominion of India, it shares an international boundary with Myanmar and has tropical and subtropical evergreen forests.
Nagaland is an agrarian state with over half its population dependent on agriculture and allied sectors. The four major rivers of the state make it rich in fertile alluvial deposits that facilitate the growth of various agricultural food products. Agriculture is the backbone of the economy and employs the largest number of people in the state. Rice is the staple food of the Nagas and is cultivated throughJhumand terrace cultivation systems. Other principal crops include maize, oilseeds, sugarcane, potato, ginger, etc.
A Naga spread.
Naga food is homely and nutritious, and each tribe has unique though overlapping culinary practices. A quintessential Naga meal consists of about 50% rice, 20% boiled or steamed vegetables, 20% of a meat-based gravy dish and 5% each of a hotchutney or pickle.
The much-loved meat for the Nagas is pork, as it is a mainstay at all prominent occasions and festivals. Though other common meat like chicken, beef, and fish are also an integral part of the Naga diet, pork meat is considered the most delicious. The meat is usually cut into generous portions using adao(traditional machete) and cooked without artificial flavours or oil. Instead, home-grown spices and herbs are added to enhance the flavour of the dish.
Smoked Pork with Bamboo Shoots, Red Rice, Vegetables, and Chutney.
Fish Stew with Vegetables. Image Source: Suneptula Jamir
For the Khiamniungan community, theNiamkeanis a dish which consists of dried or fermented meat skin orJangkap(in Ao), a delicacy usually paired with perilla seeds, wild herbs, kidney beans, and chillies. Another popular dish of the Khiamniungans is theChiuteh Kean, achutneymade of dried pork meat skin andAkhuni(fermented soybeans). Innards and animal blood can be boiled, roasted, or sun-dried to make delicious sausages, like theAanshe,that is consumed by the Konyak tribe. These may also be added to flavour a stew or pounded to makechutneys.For the Lotha Nagas,Penchung Han, a curry of pounded black sesame, bamboo shoot extract, and smoked beef, is a flavourful main course.
River prawns and eels are other relished seasonal favourites turned into savoury dishes, like theNyahphet,a mainstay ofthe Phom community.Nyahphetis cooked in a bamboo shaft over a pit fire. It is believed that cooking in this manner locks in the succulent essence of the dish. Similarly,Abiewa Wih,a yam curry made with dried taro leaves and smoked meat, is a dish attributed to the Pochury tribe.
Vegetables are just as important as meat in the Naga diet.Yongchak(bitter beans), culantro, mustard leaves,kholarbeans, pumpkin, banana flower, and taro, are a few popular items.AmrusuandRusep Aonare traditionally made using a variety of vegetables and herbs and are trademark dishes of the Ao community. Though the recipe and ingredients vary in each household, this nutritious vegetable stew is enjoyed by the young and old alike.
Kholar beans are enjoyed boiled, steamed, or fried.
Akhuni or Axone (fermented soybeans). Image Source: Ramengmawii Khawlhring
The Chang community members also prepare a simple but hearty dish of boiled green vegetables calledNaam Shik, usually made with bitter beans and other leftover vegetables, to minimise food wastage.Teng-Hoi,a dish of the Konyak tribe, is a curry made of yam and seasonal leafy vegetables. Bitter gourd, brinjal, and local spices are paired with dried fish to make the Lotha dish calledMachi Han.A favourite amongst the Sema tribe is theAhengu Bechukeu, a dish of boiled pumpkin, often eaten as a quick and filling snack. The Semas are also known for their extensive use of fermented soybeans (Akhuni)in their regular diet.
Pumpkins on sale. Image Source: Taw Yalla
Like many tribal communities, when it comes to food, the Nagas also profoundly acknowledge and respect nature for its benevolence. During the traditional Log Drum and Stone Pulling ceremonies, offerings of rice, meat and rice beer are made. In ancient times, this ritual was an important tradition of the Feast of Merit, performed by the Nagas. Indeed, the prerequisites for establishing a Naga village included a perennial water source and a ‘spiritual or head tree.’ This aspect points to the role that nature played in determining the cultural and culinary practices of the tribes. Almost all parts of a plant are utilised in the preparation of a meal. In most plants, its stalks, leaves, fruits, flowers, roots, and stems are used, and hardly anything is wasted. A quick and easy meal can be whipped up in minutes by pairing vegetables and leftover rice and meat, resulting in a warm stew or porridge.
Like many tribes living in hilly terrains, Naga food is incomplete without a mention of its fermented and preserved food culture. The Nagas possess an extensive knowledge of sustainable food systems evidenced through the numerous indigenous fermented food practices they follow. These food items have a positive effect on gut health, as they are rich in bacteria and probiotics and have a long shelf life. The type of bacterial flora developed depends on the water activity, pH, temperature, and composition of the food material.AxoneandAnishiare some of the widely prepared fermented foods. These may be consumed as standalone chutneys or used as flavouring agents in a meat stew or vegetable broth.Anishiis made from taro leaves, andAxone from soybeans. A common Ao way of utilisingAnishiis to cook it with smoke-dried pork. The meat is cut into bite-size pieces and boiled withAnishi,to which potatoes, tomatoes, or chilli may be added. Another fermented dish of the Ao community isTsungen Ngashi, a paste made with fermented crab meat, to which bamboo extract may be added to enhance its flavour.
Yongchak (bitter beans) Pickle. Image Source: Taw Yalla
Pickling is another method of preservation commonly followed in Naga kitchens. Pickling enhances the taste of the food and keeps it edible for longer periods, thereby reducing food wastage. The spiciness and flavours of fresh King Chillies and umami-packed fermented bamboo shoots make a delicious combination. Pickles are an accompaniment with the comfort foodGalho(rice and vegetable porridge), and together they make for a hearty meal. Among the Konyaks, a porridge made of pounded sticky rice and fresh beef innards calledAnn-Hoiis eaten with pickled accompaniments. A dish likeGalhocan be cooked inaLongpipot, a black earthenware made famous by the Tangkhuls of Manipur.
In the Naga society, community feasts are an occasion to not only strengthen one's sense of belonging but also reaffirm one’s indigenous identity. A riverside picnic or a hilly trek usually culminates with sharing a meal, further deepening the sense of kinship, which forms the crux of any tribal society.
Galho with a chutney on the side. Image Source: Suneptula Jamir
A Traditional Community Feast. Image Source: Suneptula Jamir
Fermented Bamboo Shoots (A common sight in Naga bazaars). Image Source: Taw Yalla
Bamboo is found in abundance and used for different purposes. Cooking in bamboo hollows is believed to add flavour to the dish. Bamboo shoots are also consumed as a vegetable and used to make delectable spicy pickles. The bamboo shoot extract also adds flavour to the broth of dishes likethe much-lovedRusep Aonof the Ao tribe. Dried bamboo shoots can also be added tochutneys, and pork with bamboo shoots is considered to be one of the signature dishes of Nagaland.
A lady selling chillies and star fruit at Kohima, Nagaland.
Nagas love all things hot! King Chilli and mountain pepper are some of the most commonly used spices. If one is unfamiliar with Naga cuisine, it is advisable to always begin with the least spicy dishes. Insects such as the silkworm, snail, red ants, grub worms and hornet larvae are also eaten with great gusto. Silkworms are particularly popular and readily sold by the kilos in the markets.Nuna Lecho,a dish made of snails cooked with smoked or sun-dried meat and perilla seeds, is a delicacy enjoyed by the Chakhesang community. A large segment of traditional Naga cuisine includes exotic foods, like river crabs, red tree worms, and frogs. However, today these are eaten only by the more adventurous lot. Sun-dried herbs, locally grown ginger, garlic, and peppercorn are added to enhance the flavour of these exotic dishes.
Every Naga household owns a mortar and pestle orTathu Khu, as it is known in Angami. Nagas are skilled wood craftsmen, and the wooden mortar and pestle form an indispensable part of a Naga kitchen, aschutneysare very popular and made by pounding chillies, herbs, meat, and vegetables. The Rengma Nagas prepare achutneyof mustard leaves, herbs, and spices calledHonkeryu Mari.Wen Shikis a favourite dish of the Chang tribesmen, prepared by cooking chicken with pounded sticky rice. Likewise,Shuhkong Hinyangis a chutney of the Sangtam tribe, made by pounding crabs, chilli and ginger. Though usually eaten as an accompaniment, thesechutneysare not secondary to the main dish, and a Naga meal is incomplete without the vast repertoire of chutneys made by each tribe.
A Traditional Naga plate.
The traditional Nagaspread is served on an indigenous plate, which has an elongated stand. Usually reserved for the head of the family or important guests, these plates enhance the experience of a sumptuous Naga meal. Other than its ceremonial importance, the additional height of these innovative plates makes them more comfortable to dine, as the Naga way of enjoying a meal is to sit down next to the warm hearth and eat without any cutlery. Though originally made of wood, today, its aluminium version is also easily available.
The Nagas brew three types of rice beers, namely,Zutho,RuhiandDzutse.ZuthoorZuis a drink particularly popular among the Lotha, Ao, Angami, Khiamniungan, and Sumi communities. It is a fermented drink made of rice (red or white) and millets. A very popular beverage, any event or celebration is incomplete withoutZutho. Primarily prepared by the women folk, the process of makingZuthois considered an important custom. Traditionally, rice would be given as a send-off gift to brides so that they may prepareZuthoin their new homes. These women are the custodians of indigenous knowledge, as it is believed thatZuthohelps in lowering blood pressure and aids in digestion. Black tea, roselle plant tea, drinks made from Job’s tears, millets, corn, and sticky rice are some of the milder Naga beverages. Juices of fruits like bananas, gooseberries, and plums are also locally produced.
Smoked Pork is also sold packaged. Image Source: Taw Yalla
Packaged items and snacks are also a part of the Nagas' food habits today. Snacks like the Angami puffed rice snack calledNyierhuko, is served with mashed perilla seeds. While the Changs enjoy a similar snack made of sticky rice calledNaknyu Wentek,the Phoms make theAnphet,a snack made of pounded rice, meat, and dried leaves, specially prepared during fetes and festivities.
Packaged items are becoming increasingly popular to cater to the demands of the ever-increasing Naga diaspora. Food reminds us of home and is a way to stay connected to our roots. An increase in demand also aids in the development of local entrepreneurial ventures, which are usually led by women, as they are the experts in indigenous food practices. There is a steady growth in the food industry of Nagaland, as the country is now taking note of the rich culinary flavours this state in Northeast India has to offer.
Sun-drying oyster mushrooms increases their shelf life. Image Source: Taw Yalla
Naga cuisine is a ‘feast for the senses.’ The sheer variety of vegetables, meats,chutneys, pickles, fruits, andbeverages, means that one is spoilt for choice. Food plays a very prominent role in a tribal society, and gluttony, playing with food, or the wastage of food is frowned upon. The Nagas live closely with nature, and their food habits reflect their cultural values. This tradition teaches us to honour and respect Mother Nature, who nourishes us with her produce. Food also adds vibrancy to any Naga festivity or ceremony, and it is believed that over a hearty meal, any dispute can be resolved. Harmony and fraternity are essential virtues of a Naga society, and food is a stimulus that encourages it, for it transcends petty societal and political barriers and forges a connection between one and all.
